Nika
Hazelton is one of a group of innovative classic cooks and food writers
of an earlier era that included the likes of M.F.K. Fisher, Craig
Claiborne and James Beard. Her 20 plus books are excellent reading as
well as full of great recipes and techniques that are described as
"straightforward, personal and unpretentious." Any serious cookbook
collector has a couple of Hazelton's book in his collection and this is
one of her later books which is a collection of her favorite recipes
that she says, "I have cooked over the years because the people I cook
them for, and I myself, like them. It is not a standard cookbook nor a
teaching manual, but a very personal assembly of dishes that I make in
my way... I like simple food, made with the best ingredients available,
cooked with care and as quickly as possible to taste as fresh as
possible..." And the book lives up to her promises.
It
also showcases her forthrightness and sense of humor. She gives
helpful commentary on menu-planning, entertaining, stocking the larder
and children's table manners! But the simplicity and great taste of her
recipes is what makes this a must-have book in my collection. Take
Russian Hors D'oeuvre Casserole, for instance.
2 Tbsp butter
1/4 cup minced onion
1/2 to 1 cup chopped mushrooms
1 cup any diced leftover cooked meat
1 cup diced cooked ham
1 cup diced chicken
1 cup diced boiled potatoes
1 dill pickle, diced
1/2 cup olives (either green or black), pitted and diced
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 to 1-1/2 cups sour cream
2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
2 to 3 tomatoes, sliced
1/2 cup grated Parmesan, cheddar, or Swiss cheese
Preheat
the oven to 350. Heat the butter and cook the onion. Add the
mushrooms and cook until just tender. Combine with the meat, ham,
chicken, potatoes, pickle and olives. Add salt ad pepper to taste. Mix
with the sour cream. Turn mixture into a 2-1/2 to 3-quart buttered
baking dish and cover with the hard-boiled eggs. Surround with tomato
slices. Sprinkle grated cheese over the top and bake until thoroughly
heated and brown.
This would make a very nice luncheon or supper main dish.
I
love to read my cookbooks. Every evening I have a stack at my side to
peruse and this is one of those that is fun to read--apart from
recipes. Hazelton has a wry wit and a keen mind that is interesting,
but she also seems to have a soft, homey side to her that makes you feel
like making her homey dishes.
In
the chapter entitled, "Eggs, Cheese, and Cereals" she writes, "Besides,
when you are at wit's end as to what to cook, think of the three steady
faithfuls: eggs, cheese, and cereals. I do hope you have them always
on hand. As you will see, mankind has long relied on this trio of
foods."
We
have some dear friends who have always welcomed us to their lake cabin;
sometimes including our children, their friends, then their spouses and
now their children as well. The time-honored breakfast is made by
Royce and he has made giant amounts every year; Farmer's Breakfast, he
calls it. Hazelton's recipe, with the same title is very, very close:
Farmer's Breakfast (serves 2)
6 slices bacon, cut crosswise into small strips
1 small sweet green pepper, cored, seeded, and diced
2 Tbsp. finely chopped onion
3 large boiled potatoes, peeled and cubed (2 to 3 cups)
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup of any grated cheese
6 eggs
Fry
the bacon over low heat until slightly browned and crisp. Drain off
all but 3 tablespoons of fat. Add the green pepper, onion, potatoes,
and salt and pepper to taste. Cook over medium heat for about 5
minutes, or until potatoes are golden, stirring frequently. Sprinkle
the cheese over the vegetables and stir. Break the eggs into pan over
mixture and cook over low heat until eggs are set, stirring constantly.
Do not beat the eggs beforehand.
This
is a great book for just perusing and reading, but it has many, many
wonderful recipes as well; directions are straightforward and
ingredients are not unusual or expensive, in most cases. I have tried
several and they have all been delicious and turned out exactly as
advertised. That's saying a lot about a cookbook.
